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Cognac 1992-1924 for Christmas


 

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Hello, that is one among our (nearly) day by day tastings. Santé!
   
 

 

 

December 25, 2021


Whiskyfun

Malternatives:

Cognac 1992-1924 for Christmas

An increasing number of malt fanatics at the moment are into cognac as properly, which does not shock me one bit. The previous archenemies have buried the hatchet, in spite of everything many belong to the identical multinationals… Now there are various extra small indies in cognac, in the intervening time… An apéritif please…

ean Fillioux 'Très Vieux' (40%, OB, grande champagne, +/-2018)

Jean Fillioux ‘Très Vieux’ (40%, OB, grande champagne, +/-2018) Three stars

We all know that in whisky converse, ‘very previous’ means ‘fairly younger’. It is moderately the identical in cognac, ‘très vieux’ normally that means ‘not fairly the youngest we now have’. Though let’s be sincere, this very one’s additionally a XO, even an XO Additional. Earlier than 2016, the youngest eau-de-vie in an XO needed to be at the least 6, however since 2016 that is grow to be 10. Normally, makers would are likely to make you imagine that theirs are a lot older than that minimal requirement, whereas they might usually be… proper. Color: deep gold. Nostril: a really contemporary nostril, beginning with slightly liquorice and happening with an entire basket of contemporary reduce fruits, corresponding to the same old peaches, mangos, starkrimsons, and even pink bananas and litchis. Then we’d discover nougat, fudge, maple syrup and distinct whiffs of honeysuckle. Pretty, contemporary, elegant. Mouth: completely pretty, very elegant, only a tad feeble at this murderous power. I imply it murders the spirit, definitely not the taster. Outdated pinot gris, preserved peaches, peach syrup, cantaloupe liqueur, spearmint, eucalyptus syrup… Sadly it crashes and will get flat. End: very quick. A crying disgrace. Honey. Feedback: they are saying it’s truly 25 years previous. That exhibits, it is fabulous cognac, however the 40% vol. simply do not work anymore by at the moment’s requirements.


SGP:630 – 80 factors.

Let’s go vertical whereas staying at Fillioux’ in Juillac-le-Coq…

Jean Fillioux 1992 'La Flèche de Feu' (43%, Malternatives Belgium, grande champagne, 252 bottles)

Jean Fillioux 1992 ‘La Flèche de Feu’ (43%, Malternatives Belgium, grande champagne, 252 bottles) Four stars

From their single property, Domaine de la Pouyade. 43% positive work higher than 40%. Color: gold. Nostril: brisker but, extra on apples and pears, plums, even calvados, actually. Extra herbs, peelings, reduce apples, hay, inexperienced melons this time… And far much less on unique fruits. Mouth: certainly a a lot firmer expression, with extra roots, husks, branches, peelings, grasses… I am discovering much more apples as properly, which I really like (whereas they might preserve the physician away, naturally), in addition to quinces and greengages, that are a few of my pet fruits. Notes of jujubes and even sorb as properly. Very advanced, behind this slight rustic facet. The 43% work completely properly. End: moderately lengthy, rounder, with extra desserts and honeys. Contemporary pears and heather honey within the aftertaste. Feedback: a tad austere at instances, and in that respect moderately the alternative of the very fragrant ‘Très Vieux’. Fairly malternative indeedn and excellent certainly.

SGP:551 – 87 factors.

Cognac Grande Champagne 37 yo 1979 (50%, La Distillerie Générale, grande champagne, cask #14557, 35cl, 870 bottles)

Cognac Grande Champagne 37 yo 1979 (50%, La Distillerie Générale, grande champagne, cask #14557, 35cl, 870 bottles) Four stars and a half

That is Martell. The story goes like Martell acquired this third-fill cask (they name that aged casks) in 1984 after which stored it first in a moist warehouse, then in a dry one, till bottling two or three years in the past. Color: gold. Nostril: it is moderately akin to the primary Jean Fillioux on the nostril, with quite a lot of contemporary aromatics, besides that this one was bottled at a correct power! A couple of rose petals and whiffs of dunnage, many raisins, walnuts, pomegranates, oranges, melons, mangos, honeysuckle, lime blossom, then a variety of Christmas cookies and bredala, particularly anis bredala, additionally figs each contemporary and dried, small cigars… Good nostril, very advanced and ever-developing. I might like to know who distilled this. With water: some beeswax coming by means of. We could not disapprove. Mouth: a number of inexperienced tannins, aniseed, verjuice, apple peel… Slightly gritty at this level, however slightly water ought to assist. With water: bingo. Liquorice allsorts, numerous honeys and nougats, pistachio turon, quince jelly, Lebanese pastries (let’s help Lebanon)… This can be a good palate and doubtless one of the best use of Evian (I ran out of Vittel, quickly). End: medium, very contemporary and fruity when at +/-45%, unique, a tad mentholy… In brief, all is properly. Liquorice within the aftertaste, as occurs usually. Feedback: all is properly certainly and we’re approaching perfection in my e book. Who distilled and first crammed this pretty lazy cask?

SGP:651 – 89 factors.

Maison Prunier 43 yo 1977/2021 (56.3%, The Purist, Wine4you, petite champagne, 90 bottles)

Maison Prunier 43 yo 1977/2021 (56.3%, The Purist, Wine4you, petite champagne, 90 bottles) Five stars

1977, that is Speaking Heads! Color: mild amber. Nostril: sumptuously on maple syrup and chestnut honey, with just a bit sandalwood and cinnamon within the background. Pretty, however I am positive there can be extra as quickly as we have added slightly Evian (I insist, we ran out of Vittel). With water: contemporary nougat. Is there something higher on this life than contemporary nougat that they only reduce for you on the nougat manufacturing unit? Additionally a drop of Greek retsina wine – however do they make retsina elsewhere? Mouth (neat): tight, punchy, even slightly aggressive, with some resinous tannins assaulting your gums. Lots of mint too. Fast, with water: an enormous boy, we’re clearly in previous malt territory right here. Yep, Macallan. Very good tightness, with some mocha, roasted pecans, Smyrna raisins, black tea, and wee bits of tobacco that you’d have gotten into your mouth out of your untipped Craven A or Senior Service… Round when Speaking Heads had been working the present. Have not smoked any of these since again then… End: lengthy, dry and slightly drying, however actually proper up my alley. Feedback: love this sort, it is up there with one of the best previous Speysiders. Liked the wee roughness too.

SGP:561 – 91 factors.

Again to the New York Dolls…

Maison Prunier 45 yo 1975/2021 (53.4%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 550 bottles)

Maison Prunier 45 yo 1975/2021 (53.4%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 550 bottles) Five stars

We had tried one other 1975 from la Cave de la Maison Prunier again in October; it was very good (WF 89). Did you discover, this can be a grande champagne, whereas the 1977 was a petite champagne. Color: deep gold. Nostril: woo-hoo… Completely tight, compact, focussed previous cognac on fudge, maple syrup, peanut butter and previous Sauternes. With water: quinces, earl gray, whiffs of engine oil, wee touches of metallic polish, and as we generally say, the exhaust of a two-stroke Kawasaki. The sort that used to roam our streets again in… 1975. Mouth (neat): beautifully tight as soon as once more, totally on raisins, quinces, marmalade, figs and toffee. One other huge boy that took its time in some wooden that knew methods to behave. With water: crème de menthe, Bénédictine and Chartreuse! What a cask. End: lengthy, natural and candy, a tad piney and unexpectedly refreshing. Love this. Feedback: this one too clicks all buttons right here at Château Whiskyfun. Some mates ‘would possibly’ discover it a tad rustic right here and there, as rustic because the New York Dolls in 1975, exactly. However I’d disagree.


SGP:661 – 91 factors.

Hermitage 1960 (47%, OB, grande champagne, +/-2019)

Hermitage 1960 (47%, OB, grande champagne, +/-2019) Five stars

Such an enthralling point out on the label, “Cognac d’une époque ancienne”. Pure poetry. We have already tried a number of glories by Hermitage, and what’s extra this one gained The Cognac Trophy & Gold Excellent Award on the IWSC 2020. However we positive will not crack below strain, as they might say at TAG Heuer’s… Color: amber. Nostril: probably the most deluxe pancake sauce ever. Great toffees, blacker honeys, cured hams (previous Parma, Iberico), chestnut liqueur from the Ardèche, and simply probably the most great rancio wines and Banyuls. Some beautiful earthiness too. Mouth: no extreme wooden in any respect, that is sorted. Some pine needles, chocolate, crème de menthe, verbena liqueur, chestnut honey, mocha, skinny mints… This type of English chocolate and mint combo simply at all times works in my e book, you simply haven’t to consider Boris Johnson. Oops, too late. End: moderately lengthy, a tad jammier, earthier, with slightly sorrel and contemporary mint. And rancio, clearly. Feedback: by the best way, 1960 is my 12 months. Good previous cognac by the home Hermitage.


SGP:461 – 90 factors.

Additional down the years…

Fins Bois N°52-22 (46.5%, Jean Grosperrin, L 869, +/-2020)

Fins Bois N°52-22 (46.5%, Jean Grosperrin, L 869, +/-2020) Four stars and a half

In idea, in accordance with some reliable mates, this can be a mix of 1952 and 1922, the 1922 accounting for one fifth of the entire vatting. Color: amber. Nostril: it’s a moderately rounded one, meady, just about on honeys, beeswax, pollens after which quince jelly. Quince jelly being the following smartest thing after Zeus’s very personal ambrosia. Goes on with slightly menthol, slightly eucalyptus and myrtle liqueurs from Corsica, then a reasonably Asian meaty/saucy combo. That sweeter sauce they might offer you with Chinese language dumplings, which I simply adore in my deepest pores (what?) Mouth: a grittiness from some previous piney woods, some liquorice wooden, extra myrtle liqueur (not quite common), mead, pine resin, after which some candy wine, like those they make in Sicily. Or on Pantelleria. And sultanas. End: medium, maybe a tad oaky and drying now, getting slightly fragile. Feedback: I used to be having it at 90 – and simply – earlier than the end. Higher-echelon previous cognac. Thoughts you, 1922, that was when Jack Kerouac was born.


SGP:461 – 89 factors.

Maison Prunier 'Lot 50' (57%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 126 bottles, 2021)

Maison Prunier ‘Lot 50’ (57%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 126 bottles, 2021) Four stars

Seventy years and hundred proof, you learn that proper. Color: ember. Nostril: in fact it is not drained, at 100 proof! Chocolate and raisins, kougelhopf, roasted chestnuts, palo cortado, then spicy desserts and biscuits. Clove cookies, anis bredala, Läckerli, ginger cookies… Some curious notes of stout too, chocolate beer, maduro cigars, glutamate, miso, umami… However boy is it vigorous, at 70 years previous! Unbelievable… With water: we’re now in malty territories. Recreation, chilly cuts, pot ale, backyard earth, pumpernickel… Mouth (neat): quite a lot of punch and definitely some tannins. Grape pips, pumpkin seeds, grapefruit pores and skin, many fruit peelings, tight sultanas, mint syrup, cough medication… However bear in mind, 57% vol. I discover it wonderful that the distinguished bottlers would not have lowered it to provide you with 20% extra bottles. Nice ethos. With water: do not, it could make it too piney, gritty and drying. Oh simply preserve it at 57% vol (As we all know, solely fools by no means change their thoughts.) End: very lengthy, slightly grassy, with inexperienced tannins. Oversteeped tea. Lots of menthol advert pine needles within the aftertaste. Feedback: this one was a troublesome wrestler. Not a straightforward one after the very beautiful 1977 and 1975 Pruniers.

SGP:351 – 86 factors.

Maison Prunier 74 yo 1946/2021 (49.5%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 30 bottles)

Maison Prunier 74 yo 1946/2021 (49.5%, The Purist, Wine4you, grande champagne, 30 bottles) Five stars

Think about the temper that used to prevail in 1946 in France. We could name this one freedom cognac? Color: amber. Nostril: this one’s eternally contemporary and integrally aromatic. Superb whiffs of wee flowers (woodruff, lilies of the valley, borage) plus caramel cream, praline, nougat and even, sure in a 74 years previous cognac, some caramel-coated popcorn! Introduced by the GIs, I’d think about. What’s positive is that this one’s brisker than the 1950. Mouth: yep! Fewer tannins and extra crystallised fruits, some natural teas (chamomile), a reasonably invasive cinnamon, similar with nutmeg, then dried dates full of marzipan (a delicacy that I will at all times cherish) in addition to touches of Lebanese – and Turkish – arrack.  Distilled figs. This very previous cognac wished to play and have enjoyable. End: moderately lengthy and sophisticated, with some black nougat this time, puréed chestnuts, softer peppers and cloves (mushy paprika?) and  pretty chocolate/espresso combo within the aftertaste. Feedback: woo-hoo! Is not Ronnie Wooden 74 too? Great previous fruity cognac, an ode to previous age and maturity.


SGP:561 – 90 factors.

Little cognac made in the course of the battle, the boys had been too busy and the ladies much more so. Whereas the occupying forces (we’re mates now) had been moderately busy downing the shares that had not been correctly hidden…

Grande Champagne N.39 (44.3%, Grosperrin for The Auld Alliance Singapore, 2021)

Grande Champagne N.39 (44.3%, Grosperrin for The Auld Alliance Singapore, 2021) Five stars

Conflict broke out on September 1, 1939, however they nonetheless managed to reap and distil this classic, as Cognac was within the ‘free zone’ anyway (zone libre). Keep in mind, with brandies, the classic refers to when the grapes had been harvested. Color: deep gold. Nostril: sure, some oils and even slightly petrol, over a most nutty nostril, stuffed with walnuts, almonds, pecans and even roasted sesame seeds. Additionally embrocations, sauna oils, Barbour grease, slightly paraffin, and linseed oil. Not quite a lot of fruits, however that is very okay as we do love all these nutty flavours. Mouth: you can not not consider some very previous Sauternes. Wee mushroomy notes, botrytis, some cocoa powder, apricot jam, dried apricots mumps, then an unfolding on raisins, resins and mints. It’s simply flabbergasting that this child would not be drained and woody – and it even made it to Singapore! End: medium and slightly drying, which is completely regular. Very piney aftertaste. They would not say however it’s not not possible that this child could be, wait, 80 years previous or perhaps a little extra. By the best way, we have stored the Glenlivet 80 yo G&M for Christmas. Would not charity start at house? Feedback: unimaginable, even when that is extra a Botticelli than a Koons. Yeah we do agree.


SGP:461 – 91 factors.

We have additionally received a ’39 Prunier, thoughts you…

Maison Prunier 81 yo 1939/2021 (43.2%, The Purist, Wine4you, petite champagne, 42 bottles)

Maison Prunier 81 yo 1939/2021 (43.2%, The Purist, Wine4you, petite champagne, 42 bottles) Four stars

Eighty-one-years-old! That even beats G&M’ newest ‘livet! Color: darkish crimson amber. Nostril: you would not get the fracas of the cannons but, certainly. It’s truly a softer, aromatic, floral, peaceable petite champagne, stuffed with buttercups, lilies, gorse, then Parma ham, mead, very previous chardonnay, and simply previous beeswax, presbytery (cautious) and root. Beets, gentian, celeriac and wartime Jerusalem artichokes. The notes of gentian would by no means cease rising, which I discover shocking and completely wonderful in such a really previous cognac. Mouth: positive the oak feels, and it could really feel quite a bit, with bitter herbs and quite a lot of hay, however you ned to intellectualise all this, proper. The higher information is that some tropical fruits preserve combating in there, particularly pineapples and guavas. Guavas are to be present in probably the most unlikely spirits. Not saying that is unlikely, it is simply that previous age feels. Oh properly, I do know what I am making an attempt to say. End: medium and dry and natural. Feedback: we’re most likely touching the boundaries of previous age in any spirits. I discover it additionally slightly transferring to think about the distillers doing their work whereas realizing that the mighty Wehrmacht would most likely take the land over eventually. And drink all of it (fairly), because the Germans was devoted sponges. ‘Schnaps, das battle sein letztes Wort…’ usw…  


SGP:371 – 86 factors.

Maison Prunier 89 yo 1931/2021 (40.6%, The Purist, Wine4you, fins bois, 42 bottles)

Maison Prunier 89 yo 1931/2021 (40.6%, The Purist, Wine4you, fins bois, 42 bottles) Four stars

89 years previous, that is changing into scary, however I’ve heard it is Keith Richards who distilled this one in his spare time…  Eighty-nine, Neunundachtzig, ottantanove, quatre-vingt-neuf, ochenta y nueve, ???! Color: gold. Nostril: it isn’t probably the most uninterested in then all, I am even discovering all these notes of nougat and biscuits contemporary and energetic. Some inexperienced bananas, dandelions, pistachios, macadamia nuts, carrots, apples… It’s a very previous spirit, sensible, appeased and serene, and never drained in any method. Great herbalness within the background, we may nearly point out previous Tarragone chartreuse, however inexperienced bananas stay on the lead all alongside. Mouth: wonderful, it isn’t lifeless, neither has it grow to be too tea-ish, it’s even moderately contemporary, with plums and previous white wines, white Bourgogne, rieslings, some average oaky spiciness, and moderately quite a lot of banana pores and skin. Banana pores and skin stays an indication of previous age, having stated that. I imply, in spirits aged in oak, not in people. End: medium, with some fruits and a few herbs. Bananas pores and skin once more, guava, plantains… Feedback: a miracle. Except I am flawed, that is actually the oldest spirit I’ve ever tried. We’re speaking age in wooden, naturally, not age in demijohns or bottles, which might be too straightforward and, truly, unlawful. Loopy.


SGP:361 – 87 factors.

We could strive a final one? I imply, one which was distilled 97 years in the past?

Grande Champagne N.24 (43.6%, Grosperrin for The Auld Alliance Singapore, 2021)

Grande Champagne N.24 (43.6%, Grosperrin for The Auld Alliance Singapore, 2021) Five stars

1924, wow, that is Otto Dix’s time, Edward Hopper’s, Paul Klee’s, Paul Whiteman’s, Ma Rainey’s, Fauré, Sibelius, Copland and Erik Satie’s… It’s so completely transferring to style a liquid that is seen these instances and breathed the identical air… Color: deep crimson amber. Nostril: this can’t be, that is contemporary as a daisy in a morning in June, this has numerous flowers, wisteria, peonies, lilies, jasmine… This has beautiful honeys, nuts, quinces (hurray), extra quinces, much more quinces… Wait, that is pure liquid quince jelly, king of fruits and queen of all aromas which can be to be present in any aged spirits. Masterful previous cognac on the nostril. Mouth: ooh… How can this be? Past the wee piney, resinous, propolis-like flavours that is perhaps a tad ‘an excessive amount of’ (however S., 97 years!) these dried and crystallised fruits are simply completely beautiful. Please name the Anti-OldSpiritPorn brigade! Quinces first, they preserve main the pack, then figs, dried longans or rambutans, jujubes, tiny berries, sorb, checkerberries, holly, elderberries… Do not we simply love all of them? Unsweetened Darjeeling tea taking on after ten minutes, which was to be anticipated. End: not the longest ever. Cocoa powder, floor espresso, dry tobacco… Some sweeter, brisker berries within the aftertaste. Elderberries and mates. Feedback: as they are saying in brochures and now on Instagram, that is fascinating. You wouldn’t choose it solely ‘technically’ (f**okay that) the wow impact being what’s actually essential right here.  Thoughts you, 97 years. Ninety-seven, quatre-vingt-dix-sept, siebenundneunzig, novantasette, noventa y siete, Kyû-jû-shich, no matter.


SGP:461 – 91 factors.

In the event that they ever do a 1907, might I recommend they name it ‘Nationale 7’?

Within the phrases of Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, ‘au revoir’.

 

 
   

 

 

 

 



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