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HomeWineDecanter’s dream vacation spot: Lodge Schoenburg, Oberwesel, Germany

Decanter’s dream vacation spot: Lodge Schoenburg, Oberwesel, Germany


The 12 months is 911. Charlemagne’s grandson, King Louis ‘The Baby’ of East Francia dies aged 17 after an 11-year reign and turns into the final ruler of the East Frankish Carolingian Dynasty.

Elsewhere, in what’s going to change into often known as the Kingdom of Germany, Schoenberg Citadel situated on a small hill within the medieval city of Oberwesel, overlooking the meandering banks of the River Rhein, is first talked about in written sources.

A lot has occurred since then. Household squabbles and tribal warfare meant the citadel regularly modified fingers, and has even been burnt down and rebuilt.

At the moment there could now not be royalty preventing over its possession, however a keep in one of many citadel’s 27 rooms will make you are feeling like an aristocrat.

Dwelling like a king

The Sieben Jungfrauen suite. Credit score: Volker Linger

The exterior partitions of the citadel are created from the identical slate that offers the wines of Germany’s Mittelrhein area their distinct minerality and construction. Getting into the citadel and again in time, the lodge is adorned with a agency nod to fifteenth century interiors. Darkish wooden panelling, hanging tapestries and leaded glass home windows are sympathetically used to create an enthralling and welcoming pastiche.

The bedrooms, every with their very own names similar to ‘Pfalzgrafenkemenate’ (kemenate translating to a room with a fire or a girl’s personal room), are individually furnished however observe the identical unifying theme. From cosy, devoted single-person rooms, to suites with four-poster beds, en suite saunas and personal balconies.

Wine time

Lodge Schoenburg at evening

Enterprise exterior and it’s clear that wine is, and has at all times been, on the coronary heart of Oberwesel. It was the wine commerce that introduced wealth to the area from the thirteenth to the fifteenth century, permitting the city wall to be constructed. That wall nonetheless stands largely intact right this moment: guests can stroll alongside it and see contained in the fortified towers.

Riesling reigns right here, with round 70% of the area’s vineyards planted with it. So it’s solely proper to attempt to perceive the native’s love for it. The lodge provides personal excursions the place you might be met on the citadel doorways by a winemaker and whisked away for 2 hours. Your tour will take within the city, vineyards, views and naturally finish with a wine tasting. (€65 per individual).

In the event you desire one thing a bit of extra vigorous, then one of many many wine festivals ought to be a part of your schedule. Germany has over 1,000 wine festivals yearly and the Mittelrhein is not any exception for celebrating all issues vinous.

When to go to

Plan your go to to incorporate a visit to the Christmas market or to the springtime Mittelrheinischer Weinfrühling. This 5km route begins in Boppard (13 minutes away from Oberwesel by practice) and travels by way of 16 ‘stations’ celebrating the brand new classic launch, coinciding with Rhein in Flammen. Because the identify suggests, the river is lit up by firework shows happening in 5 areas alongside the Rhein with wine festivals taking place bankside.

Then there may be probably the most distinctive occasion of all, one which solely occurs in Oberwesel: Weinhexennacht (wine witch evening) on 30 April. The occasion traces its historical past again to a time when witches’ fires had been lit within the vineyards to drive out winter demons. Today an area girl is chosen to characterize the city and its wines, along with her inauguration consisting of her climbing out of an enormous wine barrel out there sq..

Foods and drinks

The lodge restaurant

Even when your journey doesn’t coincide with a competition you possibly can nonetheless expertise the most effective of the area by looking for Haus der besten Schoppen Mittelrhein. These eating places, inns and taverns have been judged to serve glorious native food and drinks.

And naturally you possibly can plan your personal visits to wineries within the area. Solutions embody Weingut Ratzenberger and Weingut Toni Jost, each members of the VDP Mittelrhein. Or drop into Weingut Albert Lambrich, the household vineyard of the present wine witch Julia Lambrich.


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