The madeleine will not be a showy French pastry. Think about its humble form: As normal a model of a seashell that may be imagined; the sort any beachgoer has seen hundreds of instances with no second thought. The flavour? A pure expression of its elements, what the Larousse Gastronomique says is solely sugar, flour, melted butter, and eggs. Set towards a case of elaborate viennoiserie, jaunty mille-feuilles, and colourful macarons, the madeleine demures.
However at Le Comptoir, the hardly year-old pâtisserie on the ground-floor of Paris’s historic Resort Ritz, the dainty pastry takes middle stage. That’s as a result of the resort’s head pâtissier (and Netflix’s “Chef in a Truck”) François Perret has type of a factor for this understated candy. Within the cream-and-peach-hued boutique, I discovered the madeleine taking many varieties: Palm-sized and crammed with passionfruit, blackberry, and caramel; a basic model, however made XXL; blitzed right into a milkshake. There’s even a madeleine-that’s-not-a-madeleine—an intricate trompe l’oeil entremet made up of mousse, custard, and cake long-established within the form of the much more modest deal with. Madeleines even adorn the wallpaper (which is now my telephone background). I introduced dwelling two bins filled with them—good keepsakes, oval-shaped and festooned with playful illustrations of César Ritz, Auguste Escoffier, and chef Perret himself.
Again in New York, I’ve lately been served madeleines after each seafood (tiny, tried-and-true), and fried rooster (a cornbread riff). I can’t say I used to be upset by both. My candy tooth is refined at greatest, and these playful pastries are usually simply the correct amount of dessert for my style. This model, tailored from Perret’s recipe, options two sorts of honey—floral acacia and richer, savory chestnut—and a skinny, tart layer of glaze. What a chic fall delight. The madeleine is prepared for its shut up.
Yield: makes 23
Time: 24 hours 55 minutes
For the madeleines:
- 1¾ cups pastry flour
- 2 tsp. baking powder
- 3 massive eggs, at room temperature
- ½ cup superfine sugar
- 2 Tbsp. acacia honey
- 1½ tsp. chestnut honey
- 10 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. heat unsalted melted butter, plus extra for greasing
For the icing (elective):
- 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar
- 1 tsp. ascorbic acid
- 2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. olive oil
- Into a big bowl, sift the flour and baking powder and put aside. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the eggs with the sugar and honeys till mixed. Step by step combine within the sifted flour-baking powder combination, then, with the mixer working, add the melted butter. Change off the mixer to keep away from overbeating. Scrape the batter into an hermetic container and refrigerate for a minimum of 24 hours and as much as 2 days.
- When you find yourself able to bake the madeleines, evenly brush a standard-sized madeleine pan with butter. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
- Fill every of the pan’s indentations with 2 tablespoons of the batter (relying on the scale of your pan, chances are you’ll must bake in batches). Switch to the oven, shut the door, then instantly decrease the temperature to 325°F. Bake till the tops of the madeleines kind small humps and are evenly golden, 10–12 minutes. Cool barely within the pan earlier than unmolding, then switch to a wire rack and funky to room temperature. (You could serve the madeleines the day they’re baked, however their texture improves after resting a day; as soon as cooled, wrap tightly in plastic wrap and put aside at room temperature for twenty-four hours.)
- If desired, the next day, ice the madeleines: Preheat the oven to 425°F.
- Line a big baking sheet with parchment paper and put aside. In a medium bowl, whisk collectively the confectioners’ sugar, ascorbic acid, olive oil, and ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon of cool water. Brush the icing all around the madeleines, then organize them on the lined baking sheet, fluted-side-up. Bake till the icing is dry to the contact, 2–3 minutes. Serve heat or at room temperature.